The sky was blue and the sun was bright as the taxi wound through the lush, green hills outside of Bilbao. I was tired and yearned to get to my destination – Hotel Gran Bilbao. The car rounded a corner as I fidgeted in the back seat and my impatient thoughts could hardly contain themselves. How much
longer was this going to take?

It was about then that I looked up to a giant red smile welcoming me to the city. My eyes widened as did my smile as the car crossed the La Salve Bridge, officially known as the Prince and Princess of Spain Bridge. To the right of the bridge was a beautiful, modern, silver structure; it took my breath away.

I asked the driver in my less than adequate Spanish what the building was, knowing of course it was the famous Guggenheim. Wow, Wow, Wow were the only words that I could get passed my lips, I was speechless.

The building with the sun singing against the lightweight titanium was iridescent like the scales on a beautiful fish glistening in the water. The sight was overwhelming and moved me like I’ve never been moved before. I could feel the excitement grow from the small of my back up the nap of my neck completely taking over my entire body, it rocked me like a hurricane as The Scorpions – a favorite college band sings.

This moment, one of the most beautiful and exciting of my life would be the start of my adventure To The Sea You & Me – El Camino de Santiago…My Way.

I arrived in Bilbao on September 27, 2018 three days prior to meeting up with the group that I would be a part of for the first eleven days of October. We would cross the Northern part of Spain together on the Camino Francés from St. Jean Pied de Port in the French Pyrenees ending at the stunning cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia, where St James is believed to be buried.

Why fly into Bilboa, Spain you might wonder? It was because…

• a major, or somewhat major airport to get near to the Camino Francés is Bilboa.
• the group I mentioned in my previous post – To the Sea, You & Me – My Way, was meeting on October 1st in the lobby of the Hotel Gran, the starting point of the adventure.
• an early arrival would provide three full days to get accustomed to the time zone, relax, and explore all that Bilbao has to offer and Bilbao has many wonderful things to offer!

Winner of the 2018 European City of the Year Urbanism Award, Bilbao the capital of the Basque Province of Viscay in the North of Spain, once was considered to be the “Liverpool of Spain.” Today however the city has been transformed from the “post-industrial economic doldrums of the 1990s” in part due to the Guggenheim Museum gracing the city with its presence on the banks of the Nervión River. Bilbao through it’s radical transformation has become a flourishing Basque city full of life, culture, Michelin Star restaurants, Pinxtos (the Basque word meaning skewered foods,  tapas), art, architecture, Spanish designers, symbolism, tourism and more!

My plan very similar to most when I am exploring a European city would be to take each day as it came. I did however want to enjoy the Hotel Gran, which is the place to stay if ever in Bilbao. The Gran is a quiet, modern hotel filled with art offering many amenities including a gastronomic restaurant, spa with massage – one of the best I ‘ve had in the world – coupled with location, location, location, making Bilbao a very walkable city.

The hotel is only minutes walk to the city center, the old town and more. Best of all, it is directly across the street from the Nervión River, the promenade that meanders next to it and most importantly, the iconic Guggenheim!

There are the most wonderful views of the museum, the bridge and the river from The Gran’s roof top, open air bar which offers traditional regional Pinxtos and adult beverages of all sorts, including my beloved champagne! Upon arrival I enjoyed bubbles and Spanish peanuts as I watched the city go by below and the sun go down above, it was wonderful!

Being a lover and admirer of all art, and an inner desire to be an artist, a designer, a creator, et al my only official plan was to visit the Guggenheim. This was not only because of my appreciation of art or the fact that this architectural phenomenon created by Frank Geary was in the city I was about to explore, but also my fascination with Peggy Guggenheim, the controversial Madame of modern art. My fascination with Peggy was born as I watched Peggy Guggenheim: Art Addict, a documentary on the BBC from the bathtub while sipping a favorite William Chase Provence Rosé in the Verzon House, a favorite Herferdshire Georgian country stay during a trip to the United Kingdom back in July, 2016.

My favorite of all the collections at the Guggenheim were the larger-than-life installations scattered about the grounds surrounding the museum by Bourgeois, Kapoor, Koons, and Vasconcelos. Vasconcelos also was featuring the I’m Your Mirror exhibition inside which showcased pieces of her work from 1997 to the present day. The stunning, beautiful pieces were playful, thought provoking, and quite frankly absolutely amazing!

Portuguese artist born in Paris, Joana Vasconcelos has been exhibiting her work since the mid-1990s. One of the facts I find most impressive is that she is not only the youngest artist but also the first women to exhibit at the Palace of Versailles in France in 2012, Bravo!

The I’m Your Mirror collection includes larger than life installations, sculptures, textiles and ceramics. The name was given as a tribute to Nico, the celebrated German vocalist who sang I’ll Be Your Mirror with the New York band The Velvet Underground, and is a retrospective featuring some thirty pieces produced between 1997 and the present day.

Her sculptures, usually large-format works that sometimes have movement, sound, or lights are characterized by their chromatic richness and their exuberance. With an attractive sense of humor that shuns dogmatism, her work also explores issues of identity ranging from very intimate questions to universal sociopolitical themes linked to globalized postcolonial societies, such as migration or the exploitation of women.

My personal favorites utilized very familiar objects, objects that were transformed into oversized interpretations of other familiar things. Old fashioned telephones assembled into a giant pistol – Call Center; fuchsia ostrich feathers and Swarovski crystals embellished a life-size helicopter  –Lilicoptere; stainless steel sauce pans and their respective lids transformed into an elegant pair of high-heel shoes –Marilyn; car wheels and plastic glasses erected into a giant engagement ring – Solitário; A Noiva  a hanging chandelier almost reaching the floor concocted from cotton tampons; red plastic cutlery repurposed to make a beautiful heart – Coracao Independente Vermelho; and finally, hand mirrors placed side-by-side and on top of each other forming a mask –  I’ll Be Your Mirror, the crown jewel of the exhibition.

The audio tour discussed the use of mirrors to make the mask, very thought provoking. The mirror allows one to see and recognize identity and self, it allows one to discover one’s true essence. The mask, however hides and distorts reality, and offers many possible identities. Therefore the mask is the mirror while the mirror is a mask. Something to think about.

The exhibition opened June 29, 2018 and sadly closed on November 11, 2018. My arrival to Bilbao was timely, certainly a blessing that introduced me to a new, very accomplished and interesting modern artist. If the opportunity presents itself and Joana Vasconcelos is exhibiting her wonderful collection, it is a must for you to see. In the meantime, the book published about the exhibition I’m Your Mirror is very worth the buy and very worth the read. It includes all of her creations that were showcased at the Bilbao exhibition.

In addition to the Guggenheim, there are many wonderful things to try and explore in this Basque City without a plan. However, three days certainly are not enough to explore all that this city and the surround have to offer. Some of my favorite highlights of things to do and see in Bilbao include:

Piparras (Basque chili pepper) y vinos at La Bodeguilla a sidewalk food cart on the Mercado de la Ribera (market square) giving a new twist on the food truck concept. Family owned and operated, Piparras offered a fresh, delicious, and healthy alternative coupled with a soft, refreshing glass of rosé. This was a perfect stop for a quick bite that satisfied my growing hunger and quenched my thirst on this hot afternoon during my day of exploration and treasure troving.

A stroll along the Nervión would prove to offer a plethora of activities this very hot end of September –  music, artists, water sports, dancing, festivals, riverside cocktails and more. Locals and tourists alike were out embracing the weather and enjoying this glorious day.

My adventure began chatting. with a local artist on the river front. I always enjoy learning their story and supporting their craft. I left with a copper wire rendition of Maman for my nephew Jack and an old tile painted with La Salve Bridge and Maman. The artists interpretation coupled with the use of metallic paints was magical.

Shopping for Spanish designers is always a must when in Spain. Reining throughout Spain for over 75 years, another icon –  El Corte de Inglés is the epitome of a department store experience offering a large selection of Spanish fashion brands. From the basement to the top floor you will find all that you need and all that you don’t. Over the years, I have found many fabulous finds at their locations in Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, and the latest in Léon during My Camino.

One of my most favorite travel practices is to wonder the streets and alleys seeking out the unknown designers local to the area or the country. Bilbao offered a treasure trove of options and did not disappoint. Little boutiques featuring clothing, jewelry, and of course ‘zapatos’….shoes, one of my obsessions.

During my day of exploration, I came across a most intriguing boutique Beda Herrezuelo featuring very unique and beautiful shoes in the window, shoes that I needed to touch, shoes that I needed to try on. I could hear the song “How much is that dog in the window,” replaying in my head though with the word shoes instead.

I was devastated to find the shop dark and the door locked, it was lunchtime after all. My desire and obsession grew as the clock ticked on as I hoped the shop would open again, it did.

I walked in and had my way with many wonderful choices. I carefully narrowed my selection and happily left with two pair to enhance my collection. The pair of Lola Cruz, the ones in the window (see picture to the left) were one that made it back to California with me. Cruz is a Spanish shoe designer who inherited her father’s passion for the world of shoes and legacy of creating a brand that became a dream come true. Since the launch of her first collection in 2000, the brand has grown to over 600 boutiques worldwide and there is a wonderful on-line shop!

Dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant is another indulgence when in a new city. I was astonished to read that Bilbao’s offering was so bountiful – 40 at last count. Restaurante Mina, a discrete restaurant located in the gentrified La Vieja – Bilbao’s oldest neighborhood fortunately had availability and would be able to accommodate the late lunch that I had hoped for.

Not knowing exactly where the restaurant was, I arrived early to the area allowing for time to explore the streets and alleys. Colorful street murals decorating the cement walls were everywhere and something I appreciate and enjoy in all cities, adding to the overall art vibe of Bilbao. There were many places to stop to enjoy cocktails and craft beers or have a bite to eat in restaurants that have transformed and brought life back to old industrial spaces like Restaurante Mina which is situated above an old Mine, hence the name.

The entrance to Mina is a subtle door opening on to the pedestrian promenade that hugs the Nervión. If you are not paying attention, you might just walk on by and miss this hidden gem. I did several times and I was paying attention and was using navigation on my mobile.

The discrete entry from the promenade was small , enough space for the door to open and accommodate the cement staircase that rose to the left. The atmosphere – cold, rustic, and minimal. I wondered if this was the restaurant as my instinct told me to climb the stairs.

When I reached the top of the stairs, the ambiance shifted. The exposed stone walls and the cracked wooden beams set atop cement footings held up the high modern ceiling juxtaposed against the open, minimalist feel of the restaurant and the sleek modern furniture. The marriage of the old and new transformed  this historic mine into a wonderful space for modern times, absolutely perfect for this intimate Michelin one star.

I purposely made my reservation for the Chefs counter or ‘Barra’ that overlooked the open kitchen. Being alone, it would offer artistic entertainment provided by the preparation of the food and placement of it on the plates coupled with the interaction of the Mina team amongst themselves and with the six of us that were seated along the ‘Barra.’

The tasting experience was gastronomic and the fourteen courses lasted several hours. It included an abundance of local seafood, fish, produce, and of course Spanish wines. I was not disappointed.

My three days of exploration in Bilbao included architecture, art – lots of art, fashion, food, culture, and enjoying the adventure as it unfolded. It is ascertainable that discoveries are inevitable in any new city if you are open for an adventure and letting the day unfold. For me, it is much more enjoyable when treasures are
stumbled upon and found by chance.

Wondering the streets, talking to people, not being afraid to eat alone, going to the theater or a concert alone, or to try something new, are all part of the adventure. Being less scheduled and more fluid allowing for changes in the course at anytime has presented once in a lifetime experiences for me over and over again.

Since September 2018, I retrace my steps and envision all of the beautiful things that I discovered in Bilbao. The city is a treasure trove that requires more than three days to explore. I desire to return again one day to this place that I once never knew existed, a place that is now – Wow, Wow…Bilbao!

A bientôt Bilbao,

P.S. This post is second in my To the Sea, You & Me series. The series will share my experience doing the Camino de Santiago.  To the Sea You & Me – My Way was the first in the series and was posted  September 26, 2018, the day I left for Spain. There will more to this series following throughout the year, so stay tuned!

Featured photograph above and all photographs in the blog post were taken in Bilbao, Spain –  September 28-30, 2018 by xo Sandrella.